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The Digestive System of your Horse

Digestive System

One of the greatest expenses of owning a horse is feed cost. This expense can be minimized by maintaining the health of your animal, feeding a balanced ration and purchasing feeds that fulfill all nutrient requirements.

Many problems with horses are a result of either overfeeding or underfeeding. Horsemen must understand the horse’s digestive system.

Anatomy of the Digestive System

The digestive system of the horse is different than that of other farm animals. As indicated in Figure 1, the horse’s stomach is quite small. The stomach holds a maximum of 2 to 4 gallons, which is only about 8% of the horse’s digestive tract. The small intestine makes up about 30% of the horse’s digestive tract and is the major site of nutrient absorption. Approximately 65% to 70% of all nutrients are absorbed in the small intestine.

The feed passes through the horse’s stomach and small intestine in one to two hours. In a normal system of digestion, grain and highly digestible nutrients are used in the stomach and small intestine.

The next structure in the digestive system is the cecum, which is basically a fermentation vat responsible for breaking down roughages, such as grass and hay, into useful energy for the horse. The cecum and the large intestine, known as the colon, make up almost 65% of the digestive tract but are responsible for only 25% of the nutrient absorption.

Dangers of Overfeeding

The small stomach and rapid rate of feed passage through the small intestine indicates that a horse must be fed relatively small amounts of feed on a regular basis. In nature, the horse is basically a continuous eater. The advantage of the rapid rate of passage through the stomach and small intestine is that, within a couple of hours after feeding, the horse can normally be ridden without danger of digestive problems.

If the horse is fed large amounts of grain, the undigested feed may move through the upper portion of the tract and overwhelm the lower gut. Grain that is passed into the cecum and large colon is fermented, which normally results in production of gas and gaseous colic. This can make horses susceptible to digestive problems if large amounts of grain are fed.

Feed and Forage Go Hand in Hand

The lower gut, namely the cecum and colon, are relatively inefficient in the digestive and absorptive process. As a result, it is difficult to feed horses on forage alone. Therefore, animals that have any additional requirement other than maintenance, such as performance horses, growing foals and lactating mares, will need additional high-quality feeds. High quality hay and forage are needed to achieve adequate use.

Forages move through the digestive system more slowly than do grains. By feeding hay before grain, the grain portion of the ration can be slowed down through the digestive system and use of the grain is increased as well as reducing the potential for overloading the hind gut. To use the digestive system of the horse properly, horsemen must feed high quality forages and small amounts of grain regularly.

LSU Ag Center – Cinton Depew & Howard Cormier

Build a great trail horse

A common goal for all trail riders is to have a peaceful, pleasant ride. This is not always achievable if your horse consistently spooks or bolts from objects. A good trail horse will not come unglued if your hat goes flying off into the wind and will allow his rider to put on (or take off) a slicker.

Building a better trail horse starts at home with slickers and hats!

Step one:

Start on the ground with your horse in hand. Slowly pick up a slicker and shake it lightly. Your horse may quickly move away, perhaps snort, and generally show fear. At this point, quietly move forward and allow your horse to smell the slicker. After your horse feels comfortable, begin to slowly move the slicker over his entire body, starting on the neck.

After your horse feels relaxed with the slicker moving over his body, slowly raise it up above his head. Your horse may show fear again and attempt to back away. Calm his fears by the rubbing the slicker over his body and try again. This area is particularly important as some horses show more fear when objects are raised above their head. Ultimately, you want your horse feel at ease as the slicker is raised up and rubbed around his ears and face.

Repeat these steps using a hat in place of a slicker.

Your horse should stand quietly, without fear as you rub these objects over his body and face.

Step Two:

With your horse still in hand, start to move the slicker outward from his body and shake it lightly. If your horse backs away, allow him to smell the slicker and repeat step one until he stands quality. Each time your horse stands calmly, move the slicker outward and shake it — shake lightly at first and then more vigorously. Now raise the slicker above it his head and shake gently allowing it to touch his face and ears. Repeat this until your horse is becomes relaxed with the movement of the slicker around his head and body.

Next, toss the slicker to the ground so it lands near his feet. If your horse shows fear, once again allow them to smell the slicker, rub it over his body, shake and then toss it again. Continue to the toss the slicker around your horse’s body until they stand quietly.

Repeat these steps using a hat in place of a slicker.

Step Three:

Mounted on your horse with the slicker in hand, very slowly move the it over his neck, sides, and rear. After he stands quietly, move the slicker toward his ears, lean forward and rub them lightly. If your horse shows fear, slowly move the slicker over his body and try again.

Next, slowly put the slicker on and move around in the saddle allowing it to shake. After your horse feels relaxed, slowly remove the slicker and move it over his body.

After you both feel comfortable taking the slicker on and off, lightly toss it to the ground while still mounted in the saddle. Repeat this over and over until your horse is becomes relaxed with the slicker being tossed to the ground at various points around his body. If he moves away, start again by moving the slicker around his body and try again.

Repeat these steps using a hat in place of a slicker.

Desired result:

Your horse should stand quietly at ease while you continually rub, shake and toss a slicker and hat around his body and head. These are important step toward building a trusting relationship and a better trail horse.

Wendy Karolczyk A common goal for all trail riders is to have a peaceful, pleasant ride. This is not always achievable if your horse consistently spooks or bolts from objects. A good trail horse will not come unglued if your hat goes flying off into the wind and will allow his rider to put on (or take off) a slicker.

Building a better trail horse starts at home with slickers and hats!

Step one:

Start on the ground with your horse in hand. Slowly pick up a slicker and shake it lightly. Your horse may quickly move away, perhaps snort, and generally show fear. At this point, quietly move forward and allow your horse to smell the slicker. After your horse feels comfortable, begin to slowly move the slicker over his entire body, starting on the neck.

After your horse feels relaxed with the slicker moving over his body, slowly raise it up above his head. Your horse may show fear again and attempt to back away. Calm his fears by the rubbing the slicker over his body and try again. This area is particularly important as some horses show more fear when objects are raised above their head. Ultimately, you want your horse feel at ease as the slicker is raised up and rubbed around his ears and face.

Repeat these steps using a hat in place of a slicker.

Your horse should stand quietly, without fear as you rub these objects over his body and face.

Step Two:

With your horse still in hand, start to move the slicker outward from his body and shake it lightly. If your horse backs away, allow him to smell the slicker and repeat step one until he stands quality. Each time your horse stands calmly, move the slicker outward and shake it — shake lightly at first and then more vigorously. Now raise the slicker above it his head and shake gently allowing it to touch his face and ears. Repeat this until your horse is becomes relaxed with the movement of the slicker around his head and body.

Next, toss the slicker to the ground so it lands near his feet. If your horse shows fear, once again allow them to smell the slicker, rub it over his body, shake and then toss it again. Continue to the toss the slicker around your horse’s body until they stand quietly.

Repeat these steps using a hat in place of a slicker.

Step Three:

Mounted on your horse with the slicker in hand, very slowly move the it over his neck, sides, and rear. After he stands quietly, move the slicker toward his ears, lean forward and rub them lightly. If your horse shows fear, slowly move the slicker over his body and try again.

Next, slowly put the slicker on and move around in the saddle allowing it to shake. After your horse feels relaxed, slowly remove the slicker and move it over his body.

After you both feel comfortable taking the slicker on and off, lightly toss it to the ground while still mounted in the saddle. Repeat this over and over until your horse is becomes relaxed with the slicker being tossed to the ground at various points around his body. If he moves away, start again by moving the slicker around his body and try again.

Repeat these steps using a hat in place of a slicker.

Desired result:

Your horse should stand quietly at ease while you continually rub, shake and toss a slicker and hat around his body and head. These are important step toward building a trusting relationship and a better trail horse.

Wendy Karolczyk
http://totalhorseresource.com/
I have trained and shown horses in western pleasure, reining, cutting, barrel racing, western riding, jumping and working hunter. My father, a lifelong trainer and breeder, was my mentor and greatest supporter. Our family has raised great champions through the years and sharing my knowledge is now a passion!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Wendy_Karolczyk

http://totalhorseresource.com/
I have trained and shown horses in western pleasure, reining, cutting, barrel racing, western riding, jumping and working hunter. My father, a lifelong trainer and breeder, was my mentor and greatest supporter. Our family has raised great champions through the years and sharing my knowledge is now a passion!

Managing your Horse Pasture

The maintenance routine will include frequently spreading manure droppings or picking them up. Horses can wear bald patches in the ground. This typically occurs in wet weather. A useful economic tip is to spread seeds that fall from the hay onto the bald patches. This will take care of those patches with new grass in season for your horses.

Maintaining your horse pasture with a variety of grasses should be your goal for good care. Safe herbs and other plants can also be included. Some horses enjoy eating blackberries which contain vitamin C. Brambles may be left in hedges many horses enjoy eating the young leaves of these plants. Dandelions are another highly nutritious plant for horses. They are also easy to seed. Good edible plants should be encouraged in your horse pasture.

Routine pasture inspection is practical horse care. Make sure all fences are in good repair. Carefully check for any poisonous plants frequently. Most people do not have the knowledge to identify poisonous plants in their horse pasture. If you are not familiar enough with the poisonous plants for the area where you live to readily identify them, purchase a good photographic guide to poisonous plants. Inspections for these plants should take place often because seeds from these plants can blow in and sprout anytime.

Here is a list of plants using their common names that may reduce the quality of your horse pasture and those that are unsafe for horses. If you find them in you horse grazing area take care that they are removed.

Beech – Beech mast or the fruit is poisonous to horses.
Box – This plant is often used as a hedge for gardens.
Bracken – This plant is not usually eaten by horses. It should be pulled up and burned because it wastes valuable grazing and spreads.
Buttercups – Horses usually do not eat this plant but weed killers can change the taste and they may be eaten then.
Daffodil – If growing wild can be eaten.
Deadly night shade – Can be eaten by horses that browse a hedgerow accidentally.
Foxglove – Not usually eaten but it commonly grows in paddocks.
Hemlock – The whole plant is deadly. Young shoots appearing in spring are sometimes eaten.
Holly – The poisonous berries are at times eaten.
Horse chestnut – Horses can not eat the fruit of this plant but they can eat the leaves.
Ivy – This plant seems to do no harm is small quantities but not eaten in large amounts.
Laburnum – If this plant is near a grazing area it should be removed, normally it is only grown in gardens.
Oak – Consuming large amounts can cause colic in a horse and could be fatal. Sometimes a horse may crave acorns and in this case the acorns must be swept up and removed or select another pasture for the horse to graze.
Oleander – This plant is deadly to both humans and horses. It is often used as an ornamental plant. Do not pasture a horse near this plant.
Privet – This plant is poisonous to horses. It is commonly used as a hedge.
Ragwort – This plant should be pulled up and burned. It can be fatal to horses.
Yew – Poisoning from this plant happens quickly. Horses can be found dead with the plant still in its mouth.

When you are able to keep your horse in a pasture it is the best way to let him get exercise while grazing. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Fran_Mullens

What is a Coggins’ Test?

The Coggins’ test is for a serious equine virus called equine infectious anemia (EIA). There is no vaccine or cure for EIA, which is also known as “swamp fever” because of the warm, wet regions of the United States in which it is more common.

There are three stages to EIA. The acute stage is when the horse shows the symptoms of the disease, which include fever; listlessness; swelling in the chest, belly or legs; and no appetite. Although, while the infection progresses, he may not show any symptoms at all, and it may take over a month for the horse to test positive on the Coggins’ test.

According to the Indiana State Board of Animal Health, between 30 and 50 percent of horses infected with EIA die within two to four weeks of showing initial symptoms.

Horses that survive the acute phase enter the chronic phase where they will have recurring symptoms of the disease including weight loss, fever and anemia. Such horses can survive up to a year or more in this stage before finally succumbing to the disease. While appearing healthy at some times, horses can experience acute episodes again when under stress such as when faced with hot weather, hard work or other disease, according to the Indiana State Board of Animal Health.

EIA is transmitted to horses by insects such as deerflies and horseflies. It can also be transmitted to horses through instruments contaminated with infected blood such as needles or tattoo equipment.

Some horses can also be in the asymptomatic carrier stage where they do not show any signs of disease but will test positive on the Coggins’ test. But these horses can also experience acute episodes when stressed. The Indiana State Board of Animal Health notes that these horses in the asymptomatic carrier stage present the greatest danger to healthy horses in public gatherings like horse shows or clinics because they appear healthy.

Surviving horses are unable to completely clear themselves of the virus and will remain infected for the rest of their lives, according to the Animal Disease Diagnostic Laboratory at Purdue University. Affective control of the disease depends on isolation of new, sick, untested or positively testing horses; hygiene with regard to needles and like equipment such as dental tools, fly control and identification of positive animals.

Horse owners are often required to submit a negative Coggins’ test in order to show, move to a new stable, sell their horse or transport their horse across state lines. A negative Coggins’ test proves that your horse is safe to have around other healthy horses.

According to the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) fact sheet on the EIA virus, it is the “first persistent virus for which antigenic drift was defined. (Antigenic drift is the virus’s ability to change its form sufficiently so that it is no longer vulnerable to existing antibodies.)”

To determine if a horse is negative on a Coggins’ test, a blood sample from the horse is tested for the presence of EIA antibodies. Antibodies are proteins produced by the immune system that recognizes and helps fight infections and other foreign substances in the body. The antibody is specific to the EIA antigen (a foreign substance causing an immune response).

The Coggins’ test was developed by Dr. Leroy Coggins, a veterinary virologist, in the 1970s. According to the Animal Disease Diagnostic Laboratory at Purdue University, the test has a 95% accuracy rate and is the most used test for EIA though other tests can be used when the results are questionable or to confirm diagnosis.

According to the USDA APHIS, the percentage of positives for the Coggins’ test has declined from “nearly 4 percent in 1972 to less than 0.01 percent in 2005.” The agency states that historically the disease was present particularly in “hot zones” such as Texas, Oklahoma, Louisiana, Missouri, Tennessee, Alabama, Georgia, North and South Caroline, Virginia, Kentucky, among others. Recent figures show that the prevalence of EIA in the United States is roughly less than 8 in 100,000, according to the USDA APHIS.

Many states have different requirements with regard to handling horses positive for EIA. Because there is no cure for the disease, and a horse positive for it is a threat to healthy horses, many states require euthanasia. Others allow for very strict quarantine measures, where horses are removed from the herd and kept in a 200-yard buffer zone away from all other horses. Some require confinement to a screened stall. Isolated horses are to never have contact with with the rest of the herd again.
Though EIA is low in incidence in the United States, to reduce risk of horses being infected with EIA, the USDA APHIS recommends horseowners:

Never share needles among horses. Dispose of needles after each use.
Sterilize instruments thoroughly after each use.
Keep stables and area clean and drained to avoid attracting insects that spread the disease.
Use insect control such as insecticides.
Quarantine unhealthy, infected animals.
Do not breed horses that have tested positive to EIA.
Quarantine all horse species that are new to your facility until you have a Coggins’ test.
Have the Coggins’ test result done and available for horse shows, fairs, and other places where animals co-mingle.
Follow state laws concerning EIA.

Ron Petracek – Idaho Influenced Horseman & Director Of Articles for EquineInternet.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ron_Petracek