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When to Blanket your Horse

Use this handy checklist to decide if your horse needs a little extra warmth this winter with a blanket.  Knowing when to blanket your horse can help keep him comfortable and healthy through winter. If you decide to blanket your horse, check out the Blanket Sale at Horse.com! Limited Time only.

Winter Horse Blankets
Know when to blanket your horse

Some horses are happy in all but the most frigid winter temperatures, while others shiver on the first cold night of fall. To figure out if your horse needs a blanket use the following questions as a guideline – a “yes” answer to any question means your horse would appreciate a little extra insulation.

  • Do you clip your horse’s coat?   If so, your horse may need a blanket (or at least a sheet) when the temperature drops below 60 degrees.
  • Does he usually live indoors? If your horse lives even part of the time in a warm barn, he’ll feel the cold more than a horse that lives outside full time.
  • Is it below 40 degrees Fahrenheit?  Even if your horse has a natural (unclipped) coat, he may appreciate a blanket at this temperature.  If your horse is in a high-wind area or if humidity is high, or spends time in cold rain or snow?  Then you may consider using a blanket.
  • Does he live in an open pasture?  A full-time outdoor horse will grow a heavy coat to ward off the elements, but wind and rain can destroy that insulating effect. If there’s no shelter in his pasture, he may need wind- and water-resistant horse clothing to stay warm.
  • Drafts in your barn may have the same effect as outside breezes–they blow away that layer of warm air next to your horse’s skin, making him feel colder.
  • Does your horse shiver when the temperature drops?  Check your horse to see whether he’s too cold. If he’s shivering, blanket him and get him to a shelter. If your horse grows a thick coat or acclimates to colder temperatures you may want to blanket only when the weather drops drastically!
  • Is your horse a “senior”?  If so, a senior horse may not be able to handle the elements as well as past winters especially during those times when the temperature drops quickly.
  • Too heavy of a blanket?  If you are using a blanket check periodically to see if your horse is too warm.  Slide your hand under his blanket; if he’s sweaty, he needs a lighter blanket, a sheet, or none at all.

Enjoy the winter and keep warm!

 

 

10 Plants Poisonous to Horses

Are you familiar with the 10 plants poisonous to horses that may be in your pasture? Can you identify dangerous vegetation while on the riding trail? Unfortunately, potentially poisonous plants are more common than most people realize. In fact, there are hundreds of toxic flowers, shrubs, ferns, weeds, and trees in North America. However, there are simple ways to help protect your horse from toxic plants and your horse. Thankfully, horses usually avoid toxic plants. After all, most poisonous plants are distasteful. Horses are also much larger than dogs, cats, and humans. So where a nibble of some plants may instantly poison you or your other pets, horses have a little leeway. In other words, your horse would have to consume a significant amount of certain less toxic plants to feel any effects. However, extremely hungry horses have been known to eat poisonous plants despite their horrid taste. In addition, high levels of stress and vitamin or nutrient deficiencies could cause your horse to sample toxic plants. For that reason, ensure your horse has quality forage and feed. But beyond that, accidents do happen. Well intentioned neighbors have dumped grass clippings over pasture fences as a horse treat, unaware that the yew clippings mixed with the grass are extremely toxic to animals.

Plant Poisoning Symptoms

The type and amount of plant eaten dictates the symptoms. Plants can affect the respiratory, gastrointestinal, nervous, or cardiovascular systems or the liver, blood and/or kidneys. Oftentimes it is difficult to diagnose plant poisoning in a horse because many of the symptoms mimic those of other conditions. However, many plant poisonings are serious and potentially fatal. If you suspect your horse has consumed a toxic plant, contact your equine veterinarian immediately. Some symptoms to watch for include:

  • Disorientation Unprovoked Frenzy
  • Tremors Muscle Spasms
  • Difficulty Swallowing Colic
  • Fluctuating Heart and Respiratory Rates
  • Excessive Salivation
  • Abnormal Amounts or Colors of Urine

Poisonous Plants to Avoid

Some toxic plants pose a serious threat to your horse. Just a few bites of certain plants can greatly sicken or even kill your horse. Other plant toxins have the ability to build up over time and slowly poison your horse. As such, it is very important to understand which plants to steer clear from on the riding trail and eradicate from your pasture.  However, just because a plant is not listed does not mean it is safe for your horse to eat. If you have any questions consult your equine veterinarian or contact your local Department of Agriculture office.

Bracken Fern

1. Bracken Fern is a perennial fern with triangular leaves and black horizontal roots. It can grow up to three feet high. It is usually found in clumps in woodland areas and moist open areas across the United States. Signs of consumption include weight loss, depression, lack of coordination, muscle twitching, and a weak and fast pulse.

Poison Hemlock

2. Poison Hemlock is a perennial weed with toothed, fern-like leaves and clusters of small white flowers in late summer. A single plant has many stems. It has a large white parsnip-like root and is found along roadsides and in open, uncultivated areas across North America. Signs of consumption include nervousness, tremors, and a lack of coordination, that progress to depression, a weakened heart and respiratory rate, and possibly colic.

Johnsongrass

3. Johnsongrass/Sudan grass are both coarse-stemmed grasses with broad, veined leaves that can grow to six feet in height. Johnsongrass is predominant in southern climates, while Sudan grass is cultivated across North America as a forage plant. Sudan grass can cause cystitis (inflammation of the urinary bladder). Signs of poisoning may include bladder paralysis that causes dribbling or bloody urine and may progress to paralysis of the hind limbs.

Locoweed

4. Locoweed is a perennial weed with short stems and multiple leaves that grow in tufts. Some have silvery hairs. The stalks on which the white or purple flowers bloom have no leaves. They are found throughout the western and southwestern United States. Signs of consumption include strange behaviors such as excessive head bobs, exaggerated gaits, or staggering that progresses to a horse’s collapse. Horses may also become depressed, lose weight, and mares may abort their foal.

Oleander

5. Oleander is an evergreen shrub with elongated, thick leathery leaves. It can grow to the size of a small tree. Its white, pink, or red flowers grow in large clusters at the end of branches. It grows across the southern states and can often be found as a potted plant in northern climates. Signs of consumption include colic, difficulty breathing, tremors, irregular heart rate, and either an elevated or slowed pulse. Death can result from heart failure.

Red Maple

6. Red Maple Trees are medium-sized trees. Juvenile trees have smooth, pale gray bark. As the tree ages the bark turns dark and broken. In the spring and summer the leaves are green with whitish undersides and bright red stems. In the fall, the leaves turn bright red. They are found across North America. Signs of consumption include lethargy, refusal to eat, dark or discolored (red, brown, or black) urine, discolored gums and mucous membranes, increased respiratory rate, rapid heart rate, and dehydration. It may also cause a pregnant mare to abort.

Tansy Ragwort

7. Tansy Ragwort is a multi-stem weed with alternating leaves that produce clusters of small, daisy-like yellow flowers. It grows primarily in the coastal northwest United States and New England. Signs of toxicity may not appear until 6 or more months after the plant is consumed. These signs may include lethargy, photo-sensitization, and digestive disorders. Signs may not be evident until signs of liver failure occur, including loss of appetite, weight loss, and jaundice.

Water Hemlock

8. Water Hemlock is one of the most poisonous plants. It is a perennial weed with jointed stems (often with purple spots), multiple toothed leaflets, and small, white flowers that grow in umbrella-shaped clumps at the end of erect, hairless, clustered stems. It is common in marshy areas of meadows and along waterways across the United States. Most poisonings occur in the spring before the flowers or even leaves appear, since the roots are also poisonous. Signs of consumption include excessive salivation, dilated pupils, and nervousness that progress to difficulty breathing, loss of heart and muscle function, or convulsions and seizures.

Yellow Star Thistle

9. Yellow Star Thistle is an annual weed that forms a spherical plant up to three feet tall. It has round, yellow flowers surrounded by stiff spines up to 3/4″ long. They are predominant across the western United States along roadsides and in cultivated fields and pastures. Signs of consumption include tensed facial muscles and an inability to drink or bite or chew food that leads to weight loss and possibly death.

Yew

10. Yew is a woody evergreen shrub with closely spaced, flat, needlelike leaves. It has yellow or bright red berries that are soft and juicy with a hole in the end where dark seeds are visible. They are common ornamental plants across North America. Consumption usually results in sudden death. However, animals found alive are usually trembling, colicky, have difficulty breathing, and have a diminished heart rate. —

 

Poisonous plant images and information are courtesy of the United States Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Research Services and the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.

Imprinting your Foal

Foal 266Imprinting is a method of desensitizing a foal to humans who will be handling and training them as they grow and mature.

Imprinting your foal is by no means a new idea. Native American horsemen used imprinting centuries ago. They even went so far as to talk to the unborn baby in order to familiarize it to their voice. However, if imprinting is done incorrectly, it can have quite an adverse effect on the (future) learning process for the horse. It is generally accepted that a newborn foal can absorb more information shortly after birth than at any other time of its life.

To start the imprinting process on your foal begin by hand rubbing all parts of the body, including the ears and inside the mouth, picking up the feet and patting the sole until the foal doesn’t resist, rubbing a plastic bag all over the body and head. Pay particular attention to areas the foal is anxious about and gently work those areas until it is comfortable. Rub a saddle pad over its back, neck and under its belly, putting a small baby halter on and off a few times. At this stage you don’t need to actually buckle the halter, just working it on and off is enough. You can graduate to things like electric clippers (bladeless), a bareback pad with a cinch, or anything else you have around.

It’s a good idea to repeat the imprinting process on a daily bases for the first week. The entire process doesn’t need to be repeated each time. Just handling the foal and picking up its feet can be a very important lesson. Remember to talk to the foal as you work with it as they get comfort from your voice. I then continue working with the foal on a weekly basis.

The best tip I can share with you is to remember your foal has a very short attention span…so keeping your lessons short and sweet will work wonders. Make the entire process a fun time for you and the foal. Don’t forget MOM… Interacting with her during this process will assure her you don’t mean harm and will comfort her a great deal.

One of the biggest problems you may encounter is “restraining the foal”. If you release the foal when it struggles, the foal will quickly learn that struggle = release… With that said, keep with it… Don’t stop before the foal relaxes and always end on a positive note.

Many believe that imprinting is only effective if done within the first hour or two after birth, but in fact, it has been my experience, that it is equally effective if done within the first few days after birth. The key is follow through, patience, and kindness.

Essential Horse Supplies for Your Barn’s First-Aid Kit

EquiMedic at Smart Pak
EquiMedic at Smart Pak

Despite their classic beauty and grace, most horses are prone to accidents. From small scratches to puncture wounds or strained muscles to broken legs, at times it seems like horses and ponies are magnets for trouble.

Worse, equine injuries can be just as common whether your horse is stalled or turned out to pasture. The best way to treat any injury, however, is to be prepared with a well-stocked, easily accessible first aid kit. In fact, keeping even a few of the below first aid essentials could help save a severely injured horse’s life while you wait for your veterinarian to arrive.

Vital first aid supplies

Every horse owner needs a few basic first aid essentials. These items will help you dress wounds, reduce swelling and inflammation, and more. In fact, since a horse injury can occur at any time or in any location, keep at least a basic first aid kit in your barn, truck or travel trailer, and saddle bag. Depending on your preference, wound care systems are available. Or, make your own kit with the following items:

* Bandages – protect wounds, support muscles, and hold ice packs with horse leg wraps or self-adhesive bandages, including CoFlex, PowerFlex, and Vetrap.
* Blunt-Tipped Scissors – safely cut away and remove bandages and wraps.
* Buckets – soak hooves and more with a few buckets kept specifically for first aid use.
* Flashlight – view wounds and injuries in darkness or poor light conditions.
* Hemostat – remove splinters, burrs, thistles, and more from your horse’s skin with a hemostat.
* Hoof Pick – remove foreign objects from hooves and shoes.
* Ice Packs – prevent and reduce swelling with Ice Cells.
* Lubricant – help insert thermometers with mineral oil or Vaseline®.
* PVC Pipes – cut 6″ diameter piping in half lengthwise and then into 1-1/2 to 2 foot sections for use as an emergency splint.
* Rubbing Alcohol – quickly disinfect scissors, thermometers, and more.
* Sheet or Roll Cotton – help apply pressure bandages or offer support to injured muscles or bones.
* Sterile Gauze – clean and cover minor cuts and wounds with sterile gauze or Telfa (non-stick) pads of various sizes. Use gauze rolls to hold dressings and pressure wraps in place.
* Surgical Gloves – keep your hands clean and help prevent wound contamination.
* Thermometer – measure your horse’s temperature (normal range is 99.0°F to 101°F) with a fast and accurate digital thermometer.
* Wire Cutters – free your horse from fences.
* Wound Antiseptic – prevent infections with an antiseptic powder or ointment. Some insect repellents, such as Roll-On Fly Repellent and SWAT® are designed for use around wounds to help repel insects for added wound protection.
* Wound Cleaner – clean fresh wounds with a gentle, iodine solution like Povidone-10%.

Easy access to your veterinarian’s and farrier’s contact information is also vital. In addition, a complete record of all your horse’s medications, vaccinations, and wormers is essential – especially in an emergency. The best way to track all this information is with your FREE Horse Health Record.

Helpful first aid extras
The best first aid kit holds a range of products to deal with a wide variety of injuries or accidents. In addition to the basics, however, having the following products accessible will help you further prepare for almost any mishap:

* Electrolytes – help hydrate your hard-working horse with an electrolyte paste.
* Eye Cleanser – flush away dirt and debris from sensitive eyes with Eye Clens® or Clear Eyes.
* Fly Mask – protect face wounds and eyes from insects.
* Hoof Boot – treat abscesses and sore feet with a convenient boot kit, such as the HOOFix Emergency Trail Boot.
* Medicated Shampoo – kill bacteria and fungi on your horse’s skin and coat with a iodine-based shampoo.
* Phenylbutazone – treat inflammation and manage muscle, joint, and bone pain with this non-steroidal pain medicine, available by prescription in paste or powder form from the Drs. Foster and Smith Pharmacy.
* Poultice – draw out infections, soothe sore muscles, and more with a poultice, such as Epsom Salt or Icetight.
* Tail Wrap – protect your horse’s tail and keep it out of your way with a tail bag.
* Twitch – keep your horse’s attention while wounds are tended with a twitch.

First aid tips
Accidents and injuries can turn even the calmest horse owner into a frazzled mess. But what your horse needs most when he suffers any injury or wound is for you to remain calm and focused on getting your horse the help he needs. Should you ever need to use your first aid kit, keep the following tips in mind:

* Stay Calm – you can better help your horse when you’re calm and collected.
* Call for Help – an additional pair of hands will get more done faster.
* Stay Safe – you won’t be able to help your horse if you get hurt trying to help him.
* Wash Your Hands – avoid contaminating any wound by first washing your hands and then wearing latex or rubber gloves.

When any injury occurs, the key is to act quickly and smartly. To best ensure your horse is on the road to recovery as fast as possible, know where your first aid kit is at all times. In fact, show anyone who has access to your barn, travel trailer, or vehicle where your first aid kit is located. Better yet, mark your first aid kit with a cross fashioned out of red tape or a bright red permanent marker – signaling its contents to everyone.

Drs. Foster & Smith Educational Staff

 

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