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When to Blanket your Horse

Use this handy checklist to decide if your horse needs a little extra warmth this winter with a blanket.  Knowing when to blanket your horse can help keep him comfortable and healthy through winter. If you decide to blanket your horse, check out the Blanket Sale at Horse.com! Limited Time only.

Winter Horse Blankets
Know when to blanket your horse

Some horses are happy in all but the most frigid winter temperatures, while others shiver on the first cold night of fall. To figure out if your horse needs a blanket use the following questions as a guideline – a “yes” answer to any question means your horse would appreciate a little extra insulation.

  • Do you clip your horse’s coat?   If so, your horse may need a blanket (or at least a sheet) when the temperature drops below 60 degrees.
  • Does he usually live indoors? If your horse lives even part of the time in a warm barn, he’ll feel the cold more than a horse that lives outside full time.
  • Is it below 40 degrees Fahrenheit?  Even if your horse has a natural (unclipped) coat, he may appreciate a blanket at this temperature.  If your horse is in a high-wind area or if humidity is high, or spends time in cold rain or snow?  Then you may consider using a blanket.
  • Does he live in an open pasture?  A full-time outdoor horse will grow a heavy coat to ward off the elements, but wind and rain can destroy that insulating effect. If there’s no shelter in his pasture, he may need wind- and water-resistant horse clothing to stay warm.
  • Drafts in your barn may have the same effect as outside breezes–they blow away that layer of warm air next to your horse’s skin, making him feel colder.
  • Does your horse shiver when the temperature drops?  Check your horse to see whether he’s too cold. If he’s shivering, blanket him and get him to a shelter. If your horse grows a thick coat or acclimates to colder temperatures you may want to blanket only when the weather drops drastically!
  • Is your horse a “senior”?  If so, a senior horse may not be able to handle the elements as well as past winters especially during those times when the temperature drops quickly.
  • Too heavy of a blanket?  If you are using a blanket check periodically to see if your horse is too warm.  Slide your hand under his blanket; if he’s sweaty, he needs a lighter blanket, a sheet, or none at all.

Enjoy the winter and keep warm!

 

 

10 Plants Poisonous to Horses

Are you familiar with the 10 plants poisonous to horses that may be in your pasture? Can you identify dangerous vegetation while on the riding trail? Unfortunately, potentially poisonous plants are more common than most people realize. In fact, there are hundreds of toxic flowers, shrubs, ferns, weeds, and trees in North America. However, there are simple ways to help protect your horse from toxic plants and your horse. Thankfully, horses usually avoid toxic plants. After all, most poisonous plants are distasteful. Horses are also much larger than dogs, cats, and humans. So where a nibble of some plants may instantly poison you or your other pets, horses have a little leeway. In other words, your horse would have to consume a significant amount of certain less toxic plants to feel any effects. However, extremely hungry horses have been known to eat poisonous plants despite their horrid taste. In addition, high levels of stress and vitamin or nutrient deficiencies could cause your horse to sample toxic plants. For that reason, ensure your horse has quality forage and feed. But beyond that, accidents do happen. Well intentioned neighbors have dumped grass clippings over pasture fences as a horse treat, unaware that the yew clippings mixed with the grass are extremely toxic to animals.

Plant Poisoning Symptoms

The type and amount of plant eaten dictates the symptoms. Plants can affect the respiratory, gastrointestinal, nervous, or cardiovascular systems or the liver, blood and/or kidneys. Oftentimes it is difficult to diagnose plant poisoning in a horse because many of the symptoms mimic those of other conditions. However, many plant poisonings are serious and potentially fatal. If you suspect your horse has consumed a toxic plant, contact your equine veterinarian immediately. Some symptoms to watch for include:

  • Disorientation Unprovoked Frenzy
  • Tremors Muscle Spasms
  • Difficulty Swallowing Colic
  • Fluctuating Heart and Respiratory Rates
  • Excessive Salivation
  • Abnormal Amounts or Colors of Urine

Poisonous Plants to Avoid

Some toxic plants pose a serious threat to your horse. Just a few bites of certain plants can greatly sicken or even kill your horse. Other plant toxins have the ability to build up over time and slowly poison your horse. As such, it is very important to understand which plants to steer clear from on the riding trail and eradicate from your pasture.  However, just because a plant is not listed does not mean it is safe for your horse to eat. If you have any questions consult your equine veterinarian or contact your local Department of Agriculture office.

Bracken Fern

1. Bracken Fern is a perennial fern with triangular leaves and black horizontal roots. It can grow up to three feet high. It is usually found in clumps in woodland areas and moist open areas across the United States. Signs of consumption include weight loss, depression, lack of coordination, muscle twitching, and a weak and fast pulse.

Poison Hemlock

2. Poison Hemlock is a perennial weed with toothed, fern-like leaves and clusters of small white flowers in late summer. A single plant has many stems. It has a large white parsnip-like root and is found along roadsides and in open, uncultivated areas across North America. Signs of consumption include nervousness, tremors, and a lack of coordination, that progress to depression, a weakened heart and respiratory rate, and possibly colic.

Johnsongrass

3. Johnsongrass/Sudan grass are both coarse-stemmed grasses with broad, veined leaves that can grow to six feet in height. Johnsongrass is predominant in southern climates, while Sudan grass is cultivated across North America as a forage plant. Sudan grass can cause cystitis (inflammation of the urinary bladder). Signs of poisoning may include bladder paralysis that causes dribbling or bloody urine and may progress to paralysis of the hind limbs.

Locoweed

4. Locoweed is a perennial weed with short stems and multiple leaves that grow in tufts. Some have silvery hairs. The stalks on which the white or purple flowers bloom have no leaves. They are found throughout the western and southwestern United States. Signs of consumption include strange behaviors such as excessive head bobs, exaggerated gaits, or staggering that progresses to a horse’s collapse. Horses may also become depressed, lose weight, and mares may abort their foal.

Oleander

5. Oleander is an evergreen shrub with elongated, thick leathery leaves. It can grow to the size of a small tree. Its white, pink, or red flowers grow in large clusters at the end of branches. It grows across the southern states and can often be found as a potted plant in northern climates. Signs of consumption include colic, difficulty breathing, tremors, irregular heart rate, and either an elevated or slowed pulse. Death can result from heart failure.

Red Maple

6. Red Maple Trees are medium-sized trees. Juvenile trees have smooth, pale gray bark. As the tree ages the bark turns dark and broken. In the spring and summer the leaves are green with whitish undersides and bright red stems. In the fall, the leaves turn bright red. They are found across North America. Signs of consumption include lethargy, refusal to eat, dark or discolored (red, brown, or black) urine, discolored gums and mucous membranes, increased respiratory rate, rapid heart rate, and dehydration. It may also cause a pregnant mare to abort.

Tansy Ragwort

7. Tansy Ragwort is a multi-stem weed with alternating leaves that produce clusters of small, daisy-like yellow flowers. It grows primarily in the coastal northwest United States and New England. Signs of toxicity may not appear until 6 or more months after the plant is consumed. These signs may include lethargy, photo-sensitization, and digestive disorders. Signs may not be evident until signs of liver failure occur, including loss of appetite, weight loss, and jaundice.

Water Hemlock

8. Water Hemlock is one of the most poisonous plants. It is a perennial weed with jointed stems (often with purple spots), multiple toothed leaflets, and small, white flowers that grow in umbrella-shaped clumps at the end of erect, hairless, clustered stems. It is common in marshy areas of meadows and along waterways across the United States. Most poisonings occur in the spring before the flowers or even leaves appear, since the roots are also poisonous. Signs of consumption include excessive salivation, dilated pupils, and nervousness that progress to difficulty breathing, loss of heart and muscle function, or convulsions and seizures.

Yellow Star Thistle

9. Yellow Star Thistle is an annual weed that forms a spherical plant up to three feet tall. It has round, yellow flowers surrounded by stiff spines up to 3/4″ long. They are predominant across the western United States along roadsides and in cultivated fields and pastures. Signs of consumption include tensed facial muscles and an inability to drink or bite or chew food that leads to weight loss and possibly death.

Yew

10. Yew is a woody evergreen shrub with closely spaced, flat, needlelike leaves. It has yellow or bright red berries that are soft and juicy with a hole in the end where dark seeds are visible. They are common ornamental plants across North America. Consumption usually results in sudden death. However, animals found alive are usually trembling, colicky, have difficulty breathing, and have a diminished heart rate. —

 

Poisonous plant images and information are courtesy of the United States Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Research Services and the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.

Electric Pasture & Paddock Fences Overview

a-horse-electric-fencingIs your horse safe while turned out to pasture? Will repairs to your current wood pasture rail cost too much time and money? Are you looking for an economical and easy-to-install fence for your farm field or paddock?

Unlike antiquated designs of old, modern electric horse fences are safe, affordable, and reliable. In fact, if you’re like most horse owners, an electric fence is the ideal solution for all your horse containment needs. Here’s why:

Advanced design, ultimate safety

In many instances, modern electric fences are the most effective way to safely contain your horse. True, electrified fence systems of old were viewed as a mess of wires and mishandled electricity strewn about the pasture as though it were Frankenstein’s lab. But today’s designs incorporate the best aspects of safety, visibility, durability, and convenience. In fact, electric fences are safer than traditional wood, metal, or barbed wire designs that often catch and injure legs, cut and puncture skin, or worse. The benefits of today’s electric fences include:

Safe Energizers – also known as chargers or fencers, today’s energizers use an intermittent pulse to create a psychological barrier that actually trains your horse to understand her boundaries. This pulse does not harm your horse. Instead, it feels like a sharp, unpleasant slap. Best of all, this pulse instantly and quickly reprimands your horse when she touches the fence wire and then rewards her for backing away.

Visible Fences – older fences used electrified bare metal wires, which were almost impossible to see. But modern polytape, polyrope, or polywire fencing weaves stainless steel conductors around UV-stabilized polymer. The result creates a physical, highly visible boundary that withstands years of use in any weather. This design is safer for horses, wild animals, and human visitors to your pasture.

Versatile Components – with an array of insulators, step-in fence-posts, and expandable gates, modern electric fences are simple to build. Better yet, the versatile design of each component works with just about any wood post, T-post, or round post you already own. Plus, each component installs by hand or with simple tools. This greatly reduces construction time and costs without sacrifice to fence integrity.

Convenience at an economical price

Temporary, Traveling Containment

Looking for a safe way to contain your horse no matter where you’ve traveled? A portable paddock is an ideal temporary enclosure for any horse. It’s perfect for use at competitions and shows or as a temporary fence while on the riding trail. Best of all, it is also:

Convenient – entire system packs into a handy, nylon carrying bag

Lightweight – weighs just 14 pounds when packed into carrying case

Versatile – builds a 625 square foot double or 2500 square foot single line enclosure

All-Inclusive – includes a battery-powered energizer, 200-feet of polytape, eight step-in fence posts, and grounding rod

Wood, rail, vinyl, woven wire, and barbed fences are not cheap to install. In fact, when you add all the specialized fencing, posts, and fasteners, traditional fences can cost well over one dollar per foot to install. Add labor costs, should you choose to hire a professional to install the fence, and costs can soar even higher. By contrast, many electric fences cost less than 10-cents per foot to install. Plus, a single person can enclose a typical pasture or paddock in less time than it usually takes a whole team of people to install a traditional fence.

Furthermore, traditional fences are difficult to customize to your needs. Unless you’re willing to pay more for special components, the standard and often bulky designs don’t easily conform to odd shaped paddocks or extra-large pastures. However, modern electric fences are designed for convenience. Battery-, solar-, or conventionally-powered allow use virtually anywhere on your property. Similarly, modern fencing is available with less imbedded stainless steel conductors to contain ponies in small paddocks or more imbedded conductors to corral the largest horse in huge grazing pastures.

Finally, modern electric fences cost just pennies a day to continually operate. This helps protect both your horse and your pocketbook. Even more so, knowing your horse is safe at all times offers a peace of mind that is priceless and well worth the minimal investment in a suitable electric fence.

Electric Fence Checklist
Use these expert tips to help keep horses safe behind your electric fence:
– Establish Ground – place grounding rods firmly in permanently damp soil
– Firmly Connect Wires – use suitable connectors to ensure a solid connection between fencing, grounding rods, gate handles, and other components
– Check Voltage Frequently – test your electric fence system with a voltage tester
– Replace Broken Insulators – broken insulators can cause fences to short
– Clean Under Fences – mow or trim grasses, branches, bushes, and other matter that may load the fence and cause it to lose current or short completely
– Hang Electric Fence Signs – alert visitors to fence locations for added safety

Essential Horse Supplies for Your Barn’s First-Aid Kit

EquiMedic at Smart Pak
EquiMedic at Smart Pak

Despite their classic beauty and grace, most horses are prone to accidents. From small scratches to puncture wounds or strained muscles to broken legs, at times it seems like horses and ponies are magnets for trouble.

Worse, equine injuries can be just as common whether your horse is stalled or turned out to pasture. The best way to treat any injury, however, is to be prepared with a well-stocked, easily accessible first aid kit. In fact, keeping even a few of the below first aid essentials could help save a severely injured horse’s life while you wait for your veterinarian to arrive.

Vital first aid supplies

Every horse owner needs a few basic first aid essentials. These items will help you dress wounds, reduce swelling and inflammation, and more. In fact, since a horse injury can occur at any time or in any location, keep at least a basic first aid kit in your barn, truck or travel trailer, and saddle bag. Depending on your preference, wound care systems are available. Or, make your own kit with the following items:

* Bandages – protect wounds, support muscles, and hold ice packs with horse leg wraps or self-adhesive bandages, including CoFlex, PowerFlex, and Vetrap.
* Blunt-Tipped Scissors – safely cut away and remove bandages and wraps.
* Buckets – soak hooves and more with a few buckets kept specifically for first aid use.
* Flashlight – view wounds and injuries in darkness or poor light conditions.
* Hemostat – remove splinters, burrs, thistles, and more from your horse’s skin with a hemostat.
* Hoof Pick – remove foreign objects from hooves and shoes.
* Ice Packs – prevent and reduce swelling with Ice Cells.
* Lubricant – help insert thermometers with mineral oil or Vaseline®.
* PVC Pipes – cut 6″ diameter piping in half lengthwise and then into 1-1/2 to 2 foot sections for use as an emergency splint.
* Rubbing Alcohol – quickly disinfect scissors, thermometers, and more.
* Sheet or Roll Cotton – help apply pressure bandages or offer support to injured muscles or bones.
* Sterile Gauze – clean and cover minor cuts and wounds with sterile gauze or Telfa (non-stick) pads of various sizes. Use gauze rolls to hold dressings and pressure wraps in place.
* Surgical Gloves – keep your hands clean and help prevent wound contamination.
* Thermometer – measure your horse’s temperature (normal range is 99.0°F to 101°F) with a fast and accurate digital thermometer.
* Wire Cutters – free your horse from fences.
* Wound Antiseptic – prevent infections with an antiseptic powder or ointment. Some insect repellents, such as Roll-On Fly Repellent and SWAT® are designed for use around wounds to help repel insects for added wound protection.
* Wound Cleaner – clean fresh wounds with a gentle, iodine solution like Povidone-10%.

Easy access to your veterinarian’s and farrier’s contact information is also vital. In addition, a complete record of all your horse’s medications, vaccinations, and wormers is essential – especially in an emergency. The best way to track all this information is with your FREE Horse Health Record.

Helpful first aid extras
The best first aid kit holds a range of products to deal with a wide variety of injuries or accidents. In addition to the basics, however, having the following products accessible will help you further prepare for almost any mishap:

* Electrolytes – help hydrate your hard-working horse with an electrolyte paste.
* Eye Cleanser – flush away dirt and debris from sensitive eyes with Eye Clens® or Clear Eyes.
* Fly Mask – protect face wounds and eyes from insects.
* Hoof Boot – treat abscesses and sore feet with a convenient boot kit, such as the HOOFix Emergency Trail Boot.
* Medicated Shampoo – kill bacteria and fungi on your horse’s skin and coat with a iodine-based shampoo.
* Phenylbutazone – treat inflammation and manage muscle, joint, and bone pain with this non-steroidal pain medicine, available by prescription in paste or powder form from the Drs. Foster and Smith Pharmacy.
* Poultice – draw out infections, soothe sore muscles, and more with a poultice, such as Epsom Salt or Icetight.
* Tail Wrap – protect your horse’s tail and keep it out of your way with a tail bag.
* Twitch – keep your horse’s attention while wounds are tended with a twitch.

First aid tips
Accidents and injuries can turn even the calmest horse owner into a frazzled mess. But what your horse needs most when he suffers any injury or wound is for you to remain calm and focused on getting your horse the help he needs. Should you ever need to use your first aid kit, keep the following tips in mind:

* Stay Calm – you can better help your horse when you’re calm and collected.
* Call for Help – an additional pair of hands will get more done faster.
* Stay Safe – you won’t be able to help your horse if you get hurt trying to help him.
* Wash Your Hands – avoid contaminating any wound by first washing your hands and then wearing latex or rubber gloves.

When any injury occurs, the key is to act quickly and smartly. To best ensure your horse is on the road to recovery as fast as possible, know where your first aid kit is at all times. In fact, show anyone who has access to your barn, travel trailer, or vehicle where your first aid kit is located. Better yet, mark your first aid kit with a cross fashioned out of red tape or a bright red permanent marker – signaling its contents to everyone.

Drs. Foster & Smith Educational Staff

 

A Wives Tale? Using your Mare’s Milk to Anticipate Foaling

Some think of this as an old wives tale, others swear by it… You can use in it in addition to other signs that indicate your mare’s foaling time is near. So far this test has been extremely accurate in our barn, however it may not work on all mares. We have not found a mare it did not work with yet, but there are never any guarantees with mares and foaling. With that said, it has saved us a lot of sleepless nights and false alarms.

I like to start testing the milk as soon as I can extract some from the udder. I do this at least once every other day or every couple of days until I start to notice a change in the pH and calcium, and then I start testing everyday morning and night. BE CAREFUL!!! Not all mares will allow you to touch their udder, if your mare has trouble with this you can slowly try to work her into it by gently rubbing her belly and working your way closer to the udder. Stand at her side to do this, and reward her with a nice scratch each time you get close. If she acts like she will kick, be firm and say “NO” or “QUITE”, sometimes a light tug on the lead rope to correct her is needed. There are some mares that just will not allow this, and you will need to rely on other signs the mare is showing. Hope the test works for you as good as it does for us.

You don’t need any special test, or any fancy gadgets, everything we use can be purchased at your local Walmart/Pool Supply.

Shopping list:
1. Distilled Water
2. Two Syringes’ at least 6ml or more
3. Total Water Hardness test strips
(These can be purchased at Walmart in the aquarium section, or at your local pool supply company. Be sure they also test for pH levels.)

How to do the test:
Simply milk your mare, you will not need a lot, just enough for the test, about 1ml. After you have collected your sample draw up 1ml of the mares milk in one of the syringes’ and put it in a small cup (thin shot glasses work really well for this), then with your other syringe draw up 6ml of the distilled water and mix that in with the mares milk, mix the samples together well by gently swiveling the glass around, (careful not to spill any). Then take your water test strips (it helps to cut off the extra squares at the top since they will be of no use to you) dip the strip into the sample for TWO SECONDS! Remove and immediately read the results.

What do the results mean?
When the mare’s milk is testing over 300 calcium you should be having a foal in the next 24-48 hours and when the pH drops below 7.2 you should expect a foal very soon. The higher the calcium levels are and the lower the pH is the sooner she will foal!

Remember, however, Maiden mares can be very different, and while some will peak the calcium reading just before foaling, others might not peak until after foaling. And some maiden mares do not even develop an udder until the foal has been born.

It is normal for a mare to test at over 8.2 pH and lower than 50 calcium when you first start testing. This put together with the signs the mare is showing should result in higher attendance at foalings.

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